"Old-school" ethereal Riesling as Deal of the Week

Walnut Creek CA

05 April, 2022

8:43 PM

Description

Alfred Merkelbach, Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese #11 2016 I've heard from someone who's visited the Merkelbachs' at their home in Urzig (town), it is like traveling into the past. Not much has changed there in 50 years, including the brother’s approach to winemaking. They make wines that are as old-school as you can find for the region (the brothers are in their 80’s and haven’t changed styles since they started) and they capture the delicacy and etherealness of Riesling like few other.Auslese category was historically considered the masterpiece of Riesling. Typically, it shows the most terroir, the best ripeness and the best expression. Auslese vs.Kabinett vs. Spatlese - these terms correspond to levels of ripeness in grapes harvested for the best German wines. Kabinett grapes are picked at the normal time, while Spatlese refers to late-picked grapes. Auslese is special selection, meaning specially selected bunches of ripe grapes. Generally, they show more richness and intensity than Kabinett or Spatlese grapes. The wines, however, are light, often 7.5 to 8.5 percent alcohol, with an intensity that seemingly belies their delicacy. And they are versatile food partners: curries, duck breast, venison, etc.Urziger Wurzgarten is one of the most remarkable terroirs of the Mosel. The upper part of the hill is not on slate but actually on a completely different and almost unique soil of red sandstone and volcanic soil. This yields fiery and grapefruit infused wines which are hard to resist. But the uniqueness of the soil is not the main reason what makes Urziger Wurzgarten special. The main reason is that the Urziger Wurzgarten is pure living history. The part downriver from Urzig is one of the last few vineyards in the Mosel which are still tended “like in the old days” - the vineyard still goes right up to the hill top and almost all vines are still trained on the traditional single pole. In addition, a large part of the vines is still un-grafted and often very old, sometimes more than a century old! Tending and harvesting the vineyards on single pole is pure hard manual labor. This method is an anachronism in the modern winemaking world, yet, Urziger Wurzgarten, a full hill, is still managed in this traditional way. So, when you are enjoying this wine, have a thought for these winemakers and the uniqueness of this hill. 91 points Vinous“Harvested botrytis-free at 90 Oechsle, this was stopped with a bit higher residual sugar and lower alcohol than its Spätlese counterparts, a decision based on the Merkelbachs’ assessment that it exhibited Auslese tendencies. The nose is effusively and decadently floral, suggesting heliotrope and fading lily. Along with that come scents of overripe kiwi and honeydew melon, all of which presage a luscious, expansive but buoyant palate with impressively persistent layering of inner-mouth floral perfume. A pinch of salinity and a kiss of wet stone add saliva-inducement and interest to a finish that only wants a bit for animation, clarity and juiciness when compared with the most successful wines of the present collection.”91 Points Mosel Fine Wines"The 2016er Ürziger Würzgarten Auslese AP11 was harvested at 90° Oechsle in the prime Class I Pichter (locally called Langpichter) sector of the Ürziger Würzgarten. The wine develops a beautiful nose of melon, pear, grapefruit and fine spices. It proves quite smooth but multi-layered on the palate and leaves a great playful and airy feel in the long finish. This is plain beautiful and has great upside potential if the fresher zesty side comes through. 2026-2046" Deal Ends Sunday